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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.